It's been called the world's best restaurant. It's risen to fame on the wings of lavender and honey-infused ducks. Its butter-poached lobsters have snapped up the praise of critics and Michelin reviewers alike.
But when Eleven Madison Park reopens its doors on June 10, every dish will be made from vegetables of both earth and sea. On the menu will be fruits, legumes, fungi, and grains. Off the menu will be luxuriant pieces of caviar-drenched cheesecake or any other animal products you might think of, apart from honey and creamer.
It's a bold move for the three Michelin-starred eatery and its visionary owner, Daniel Humm. After all, since the Middle Ages, the uber-rich have snubbed greens in favor of more decadent meat-based dishes.
Shaking off centuries of plant-based prejudice is no easy task. Humm is aware of the challenge.
"It's crucial to us that no matter the ingredients, the dish must live up to some of my favorites in the past," reads an open letter by Humm on EMP's homepage. "I'm not going to lie, at times I'm up in the middle of the night, thinking about the risk we're taking abandoning dishes that once defined us."
Nevertheless, it's a risk worth taking for Humm, who nearly lost his restaurant and his life's work as a result of the pandemic. Back then, he was faced with an empty kitchen and stores of produce ready to go off, which lead him to decide that it was better to use EMP's resources to help those in need.
In partnership with Rethink Food, he and a skeleton staff managed to push out close to a million meals to first responders and other New Yorkers in need, according to the Wall Street Journal.
Humm's philanthropic efforts helped him consider Eleven Madison Park's context within his community.
"What began as an effort to keep our team employed while feeding people in need has become some of the most fulfilling work of my career," the open letter continues. "It was clear to me that this work must become a cornerstone of our restaurant."
When EMP reopens, not only will every dish be green, but a portion of the proceeds earned from every dish will go towards feeding those in need.
"Everyone who touches EMP-the staff, the guests, the purveyors-will help feed the city," Humm told the WSJ.
Of course, while focusing on his community, Humm couldn't go on ignoring the environmental impact of his ingredients. "Our practices of animal production, what we're doing to the oceans, the amount we consume: It is not sustainable, he told the WSJ. "If Eleven Madison Park is truly at the forefront of dining and culinary innovation, to me, it's crystal clear that this is the only place to go next."
"It is time to redefine luxury as an experience that serves a higher purpose and maintains a genuine connection to the community," the open letter. "We are thrilled to share the incredible possibilities of plant-based cuisine while deepening our connection to our homes: both our city and our planet."
